Thursday, December 16, 2010

winter




I hope everyone is enjoying the freezing temperatures and bitter cold.
I sure as hell am not, but at least Sandy and I, with a pleasant addition of Cliff (who used to be Cliffachila, before she cut off her hair) managed to squeeze in a trip to the Red in November before it got too cold.
I've been to Red River Gourge once before two years ago, but as I found out on this trip, I saw "just the tip". With that kind of teasing from a climbing area I had to come back sometime soon.
The Red and The New are SICK!
We drove my favorite vehicle Tu'rcel all the way to KY and back to NYC. That little car is a big bad ass. She made it down and out of Motherload area in the rain like it was her mf'ing job!


I made a tick list of future projects, all of which have in common "getting my shit together and growing a pair". I hope to achieve that sometime in the near future.


Nikki, I miss your face.

Transmission over.






Friday, September 3, 2010

Lee Means

Hey Guys,
If you would like to help Lee with the medical expenses, you can donate here, a good deed will not go unnoticed!


Friday, August 27, 2010

Lee Means BUSINESS and he needs our help!!

One of our friends and a climbing comrade is in trouble. Lee Means is in the hospital and is fighting for his life. Literally.(little does he know WE have ALL decided already that he ain't going nowhere and IS HERE TO STAY!)
Ben Henson is much better with his words than I am, so please feel free to read in proper english here---> LeeMeans
Thanks to the wonderful medical program in our beloved country, B.O.A.T. (bend over and take it) Lee doesn't have health insurance and is very deeply in medical debt. There is no price for life and to help our friend out,Ben started a paypall account to raise some $ for our solder. As you know, any bit helps.
One of my customers at ninthstreetsepresso who chose to be unidentified, was so touched by Lee's story that he donated $20 to "Get Well Lee Fund". He said that if he could he would give thousands. We all would.
Climbing community is the best community EVER, please help our friend, be a friend
all love to everyone!

check Bens blog for more information: LeeMeansIsOurHero

Friday, August 13, 2010

Junk in my trunk

i've got junk
Last summer, I thought to myself that bouldering and sport climbing were the best things ever and i would never do trad. I figured the rack is pricey, the climbs are terrifying, and why would i do that if i can have fun in other ways. A few month ago, i promised my friend that i will learn how to trad climb, hoping that he would bail on teaching me and i will be off the hook.
Now, I did both things i didn't think i would do;i have a rack and I'm learning how to lead,and working on growing "a pair".
I've changed my mind about trad climbing completely, i get scared, i get psyched, i get fucking terrified, but at the end it's amazing and I'm super psyched to learn and to go placed i would not otherwise go.
The feeling of "oh my god, I'm going to die" followed by "why am I freaking out?" followed by "this shit won't fit", followed by "how can I shove it in there so it wont come out" .....etc and then finally topping out and bringing your partner up the route you were convinced was your last is super awesome.
For me,right now, trad climbing is a constant reminder not to get cocky, to learn how to stay cool while understanding the dangers and the fun, being patient and being open to learning.
My rack is sweet too. If you behave I might show it to you, and maybe you can even touch it.



Friday, July 23, 2010

Canada!

Ontario,Canada good time


Living in NY doesn't leave you with a lot of options for good summer climbing. To be honest all climbing is good, it's just slimy, hot and frustrating when you slide off rock climbs because of 100% humidity and 104 degree heat. Not super psyched, but Canada in the summer, Bruce peninsula in particular, is the place to be. It has a sweet variety of sport routes, you can find some trad routes, beach bouldering, sweet temps and crystal clear fresh water swimming....not so shabby...and all within minutes from each other.
Me and my own crusher lady Sandy Gaylo took off work for a week and crossed the Canadian border with little problem to go play on rocks that won't be slimy with greasy nastys. Lion's Head was the main destination and we did some rock climbs there the same day we arrived. Lion's Head is amazing!

The hike to the craig is super fun, and the cliff itself is enormous. It is not baby friendly since you are already on top of a giant cliff. So do not bring a baby with you, unless you want to get rid of it. To access climbs you have to find trees to rappel off, and there are no chains or top anchors, so a guide book would be real handy because you will have to climb your way out, or bushwhack for a very very long time...very very long time.

Lion's Head
After checking out Lion's Head we went to see what White Bluff was all about. Sandy and I didn't know the correct approach to the cliff, so we ended up bushwhacking and following a cliff that we thought would bring us to the right spot. Plenty of choss, spiderwebs and poison ivy all the way to the craig. Little did we know is that the correct approach would lead us into a beautiful white stone beach overlooking the bay and Lion's Head in the far, along with about a 10 minute walk instead of a 30 minute bushwhack.
The wall is pretty underdeveloped but does offers a good amount of sweet fun bolted lines. So much potential for 'psyched' and never ending 'sendfests'. Sandy is such a beast, she managed to rip off a huge chunk of a climb, probably upgrading it from 5.12d to god knows what. Good job Sandy, you did good. Sandy sent the new broken climb and a bunch others without breaking anymore..I had a hard on.
Sandy bouldering on the beach
I have an unreasonable fear of falling when I lead. In my mind i know I'm totally safe but i can't help but freak and overgreap everything and peel off shit all the god damn time.
I did get on a bunch of routes and was super psyched to actually send a 5.11a called Hellraiser. If i were Nikki, I'd call it something like Terminator or Fender Bender or maybe Friendly Fire, why not...
Georgian Bay is the place to be when the heat wave hits and makes it sticky. It has all the climbing you want, all the swimming, and a ton of awesome things to check out during your downtime/rest days.
To be honest, I did not want to come back to NYC with all its heat, work, and other things that are not called climbing, road or camping. Sandy also makes for a pretty good road trip companion and a very patient belayer when I freak out on the wall moving to a jug screaming TAKE!


I think we should make a party and gather an army to come back to Canada and go crush some riggs in Halfway Dump, which is also located on Bruce Peninsula, You done crushing, treat yourself to a jump into a crystal clear water of Georgian Bay and chill. Also think about how much fun it will be trying to cross back to U.S. with a crew of, lets say, 8 people?! we might not make it...

Cliffs at Halfway Dump

I have no complaints. Life is good.
Crush.



Wednesday, July 7, 2010

Dirty Russian

Dirty Russian sends her 1st V8!!
Paulina who has sexual relations with bassforyour face made this sweet video!

Dirty Russian from paul jung on Vimeo.



thanks paul<3

Friday, July 2, 2010

Box car arete


Box Car...You are mine and i love you.
First V8 for me, couldn't be more psyched!
climbed with amazing Allison Colwell. She's radical and fearless.
look at her go....

Monday, June 21, 2010

we're not dead


Crusher ladies have been crushing...barely. It's hot as tits over here, and we're doing routes up in the Gunks, or sticking 5 fingers(I aim for 3) into man drilled pockets over at Kingston.
I love summer, and I don't mind the heat so much, but man does it suck to climb in this weather!
It's pretty frustrating to be sliding off and out of pretty boulder problems. oh well...it's a part of it...
I've been learning how to set a bit and it's pretty damn awesome. And HARD.
I think so far I like everything about route setting: watching boys set is pretty entertaining, cleaning holds is fun because I get to touch them all and pick my favorites, and exploring movement and being creative with plastic is pretty fun.

rock climbing rules


Monday, May 10, 2010

EliZabeth is in CO

Elizabeth Riley ran away from us to Colorado...but it's OK. I'm just gonna quote her
ALL THE TIME!

"i have been climbing so much

onsighting everything in sight

so psyched"

...miss you too...

Have you heard of WATERWORKS?

Come out on May 22nd and support GCC and YOUR local climbing area.The event will be held at 424 Williams Lake Road (off of Binnewater Road) from 6pm-10pm.Details at http://gunksclimbers.org


Tuesday, April 27, 2010

CrusherLady slumber party 0.1

Last night Lakhena hosted an all crusherlady slumber party. After we got done with nail painting and pillow fights in our underwear, we took them off and printed our new logo on them.
Lakhena, thanks for being such an awesome host and making the best logo, dinner and ice cream treats EVER!

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

my ascent of monkey num nums!

(photo by todd knopke)

i have no idea what the crap this problem is called for real... something to do with monkeys and pastries i think... its somewhere in the spring farms area in the gunks.... i'm no good with details.... onaconna i smoke my brains away....

Monday, March 15, 2010

crusher

Someone will do a post on the Feats of Strength V eventually,
but for now, here is Nik representing!
photo by Christopher Payan

Saturday, March 13, 2010

'secret' area

not so secret.
sorry for the bad video quality, phone camera...

STUCK ON CRUSHER

New York I love you, but you're bringing me down. We go South.


Down SOUF.
South. I love you. Truly.
Bryan and I set out on our little road trip on Monday, February 22nd. Destination South, Chattanooga Tennessee.
He picked me up from my house; we loaded up on coffee and started driving.
“Still wanna go?”
“No. Let’s not. Are you fucking crazy LETS GET THE HELL OUT OF HERE!!!”
And so we did.
Mother ship was in a top-notch shape, loaded to the rims and purring all the way to Virginia’s Roanoke. We were in no rush and stopping in for the night in a hotel seemed to be a splendid idea.
Second day, we made it Chatty, passing all sorts of huge well-lit crosses and confederacy flags along the way. Bryan and I made up a game of counting UPS trucks that passed us. We almost drove off the road trying to spot them.
In Chatty, we popped into Sticky Fingers for lunch and a victory beer for reaching our destination. (I went for a bloody Mary) Apparently Chattanooga has the sweetest aquarium in the world, because at least 5 people told us that we needed to see it. We did, but much later, and yes, it is indeed pretty damn sweet. I want to be a seahorse.
Our dump asses brought so much food for all of the camping that we were planning to do in peoples living rooms, that 1.5 weeks into our trip we gave it all away to a loud mouth kid in Alabama, when we went to play on hot sloppers of HP40. We did one day worth of camping, and the rest of the time we got super lucky to stay with FRIENDS!!! Who are awesome and rad and we are so thankful for ‘ya’ll’ to be such great hosts. Thank you for making our trip so cushy and fun!

Climbing down south is splendid! It’s totally overwhelming, exciting and insane!
I had a busted finger going out to our road trip from the Feats of Strength V at the Cliffs (which was a BLAST!), so I advised myself to stay off crimpers or anything that could potentially worsen my situation. Thank rock South has got plenty of knee bars, slopers, pinches and shit that will make me forget about crimpers and only miss them a little bit at night.
Our first stop was LRC (Little Rock City) that is locates on a huge golf course. Climbers are required to sign in and “behave” while on the property. Needless to say, both Bryan and I were completely overwhelmed with the amount of rock and mazes at the place. So much to see, do and not enough time. That’s ok; we will just have to come back.

People were friendly enough to orient us a little bit around the area, but coming back a few more times definitely helped us to get a better feel for the place.
We got on “classic” problems, explored and ran around like two kids in a big candy store.
Tommy, our wonderful ghey host, took Bry and I to Rock Town in Georgia. I was instantly in love. Seriously. Beautiful day, amazing rock, quiet and we only saw one person. If i could date Rock Town, I think i would.
Unfortunately, we only got one day in that Rock Wonderland, and I’m so itching to come back and explore more.
I miss you Rock Town, you’re so sexy.


Week one almost done; climbing, Champy’s (best fried chicken and 40s ever!), Olympic skating, Tommy, who never stops laughing and chuckling, Chatty is sweet.
On Saturday, or was it Friday, we decided to take off to see Atlanta Georgia and visit my friend Hope.
Hope Hilton is a great host, amazing artist and great friend. I love her.
Atlanta is pretty cool, very spread out for my taste, but we had fun checking out small hip neighborhoods and eating awesome tacos in a small busy place with delicious margaritas and snaking long lines.
Bryan and Hope stayed up talking at her cozy house, while i struggled to make fire and finally settled in to read a collection of letters from WWII that a wife wrote to her husband station in China. A year worth. A letter for every day. That’s some love.
Sunday we picked up our buddy Andy, who after flipping his truck sideways into a ditch and getting fed up with snow in NY, flew out to play down South.
He gave us an awesome tour of HP40 in Alabama and dealt with me getting pissy because the place, even though with great climbing, was so crowded with people spitting out beta, that I almost blew a fuse.
I hated slopers before Horse Pens and I met. Now I’m a big fan and we are friends.
Funny thing, Alabama doesn’t sell liquor of any kind on Sundays. We didn’t know, didn’t remember, and didn’t care until after we couldn’t get any.
Bryan as a champion, scored some beers from near by campers and oh man, it was so awesome.
Monday we headed back to Chatty to hang out with now FRIENDS and to met Andy’s friend Dough Toth. Hello friend.
Dough housed our rowdy bunch for a whole week and put up with our shit the whole time. Thank you Dough, you are rad!
We saw a place we’ve never been before, Laurel Falls. I think that must have been Bryan’s favorite place, I had a hard time picking one, all were so special.
Andy gave us a great tour of the area and we had a play day on the roof, saw some sweet boulders and crossed the river to spend an hour to try and cross it back. Beautiful spot, amazing rock, sick holds and a mining tunnel that i will get into next time. Dark, wet, scary and cold. I want in there.
The roof at Laurel Falls gave me a huge bloody flapper, an awesome gushing hole in a finger and way to much fun to not wanna come back, so we will be back.
Bryan destroyed a problem called Reconciliation and i finally dialed in Standblast and tried Sandblasting skin. Holy shit People! AHHHHHH! So much Fun!
Oh yeah, we also saw a very strange white turkey looking goose chilling on the road both times we visited the area.
Bryan on Standblast
The next day we were forced into a rest day, because it snowed and rained, so we checked out the aquarium. Super chill. Did i say i like seahorses? I do.
We spent one more awesome day in LRC, had a huge dinner with a lot of friends, gave everyone a typewriter and the next day, after saying our good byes ,left Chatty to start via home bound, but we had one more stop to make.
Chris, another awesome host down South showed us this amazing area 20 minutes outside of his house, with enormous beautiful faces of untouched rock, generous boulders and untapped climbing potential of his backwoods playground.
I took some photos and tried to capture that place on video, but it’s almost like trying to explain to someone what it feels like standing on the edge of the Grand Canyon. Impossible.

I think that spot was my favorite place, if i would really have to pick one, just because it was quiet, enormous and belonged to no one but the woods. You can pick any rock you want, any line you desire, clean it, climb it and move on.
No crowds, no beta, so pure. So overwhelming and real.
I learned so much stuff by climbing in all of those amazing areas down south and rediscovered what i love so much about the sport.
We all have stories and back stories, there are way too many UPS trucks and not enough Tacomas on the road, climbing is pure and beautiful, I get frustrated by crowds of people in the woods and Bryan wants me to wear a mumu, friends are the best thing ever.
I love climbing and I wish i could marry it.
I think i just proposed.

more photos and videos later.

Monday, March 8, 2010

Where has the month gone? Where did the weekend go? Is it spring time yet?


For the past month I’ve been trying to get my arm to heal up and it’s been torture not climbing, especially when working at a climbing gym!! Being buried underneath loads and loads of schoolwork I decided to join some fellow climbers and crushers on Sunday, just get outdoors and put my hands on some real rock! And what a truly unbelievable Sunday it was!! After spending my entire Saturday devoted to studying, it was more than a pleasure to wake up earlier than usual and head upstate to Mount Kisco!

The weather was a gift in itself, but being able to leave the city of never ending madness and take a hike in the warming sun with crunchy melting ice stacked on top of fallen wintery leaves with good people was a true blessing! The air was crisp and gave off an aroma of sweet spring. Although I hit points of frustration throughout the day, not being able to climb as strong as I know could have, had I not taken the month off, everything I attempted just got me amped to be outside!

As the day came to an end and the sun began to set, we all tried to squeeze in a few last boulder problems. The horizon was a gorgeous pink and the trees were glowing against the contrast of the bright, white snow.

Making our way back to the cars with what little light we had left, we all marched with a feeling of satisfaction, at least I know I did! And waking up this morning nice and sore was amazing, the best feeling ever!! I don’t think I can wait any longer for Spring to arrive… it’s time to crush!!